WALKING IN A WINTER WONDERLAND

Now a haven for houseboats, the River Stort was originally a transportation link into Roman Bishop’s Stortford, Hertfordshire. Clare Hopping takes a winter walk along the river to see how it has changed

The quiet River Stort runs past watermills and country houses through some of the most dramatic landscape in Southern England. A tributary of the Lee, the rural Stort’s gentle, 14-mile winding course has remained unaltered by the passage of time. Sprinkled with a Roman Fort, a celebrity mansion and a Norman water mill along the way, the River Stort has to be one of the most diverse rivers in the country.

At 7 o clock on a winter’s morning, many people are still curled up in bed, if not on their way to work. I left that comfort behind to take a walk along the River Stort, where every surface is coated in a silky white blanket, and the moon hangs in the sky, highlighting the spectacular landscape in purple.

My journey starts at Harlow Mill, situated on the border between Hertfordshire and Essex, an establishment steeped in history. In 1066 it belonged to the manor of Harlow until the mid

19th century when it was sold to local heroes, the Barnard family. The surviving mostly 17th century building was converted to a country club in the 1930’s, damaged by fire in the Second World War then partially demolished and the remains converted to a restaurant. This is how it stands today, fronted by a parade of houseboats moored along the riverbank, their silhouettes creating a dramatic contrast to the delicate 300-year-old architecture in the winter dawn light.

Looking up the river, Harlow Mill Bridge stands proud, with its backdrop of pinky-bronze morning light, harbouring the sporadic flow of traffic like a father’s hand cradling a new born baby.

Beyond the bridge, the river path winds untouched, except for the couple of early morning runners making the most of the silence. The only noise is the rhythmic crunching of their footsteps upon the frosty ground, a woodpecker in a tree and swans floating over the calm water. As the rising sun gently heats the water, steam begins to rise off the surface, floating effortlessly towards the flawless blue sky.
Crossing an ice-layered bridge, the roar of rushing water breaks the silence. Underneath is a waterfall, silky water flowing fluently, frothing as it hits the water below. The steam makes it look like a hot tub, bubbling and spitting.

Approximately 100 metres on from the bridge stands Beckingham Palace. Any celebrity spotters dream. Rowneybury House is an imposing 1930’s built former home for disabled children on the outskirts of Sawbridgeworth, Hertfordshire. From the river path, the windows glint like eyes, watching over the surrounding grounds and fields for any sign of paparazzi. To the left of the main building, the recently erected private chapel can be spotted. At 9 o clock in the morning, I can hear the bells in the chapel chiming, making birds rustle in their frosted habitats.

The wildlife in this part of the river is at its thickest. Frozen catkins look like defrosting icicles, ready to drop, whilst the spiky teasels contrast against the smooth blue water, only spoilt by the ripples of fish grabbing a breath of icy air.

As I enter the small town of Sawbridgeworth, fisherman sit by the river’s edge, their rods outstretched in the hope of making a catch to reward their morning spent in the bitter cold, their breaths making puffs of milky fog in the still air. Sawbridgeworth is a Tudor town, bursting with beamed architecture and rippling roofs, sprinkled with traditional cafés and bric-a-brac shops along the cobbled streets.

Continuing along the river, I walk to Spellbrook, a village just outside Sawbridgeworth. The Three Horseshoes makes a comfortable retreat for a morning drink. The converted Tudor farmhouse is a charming pub, with low beams, low lighting and a roaring fire to warm me up. It is set right on the thick, winter countryside, with fantastic views in the summer from its ‘beer garden’.

After a mile or so, the path is crossed by Pig Lane, a picturesque country lane, lined by a row of cottages. Twyford House is situated approximately 200 metres from the main river path. As a child, I remember looking at in wonder. To me, it was a huge doll’s house with its sturdy red brick frontage, and rather grand entrance. The ancient name Twyford means ‘double ford’, and in this case, it is derived from two fords once used to cross the River Stort. A large country home built in the mid to late 1700s, Twyford House is another building that should be visited when walking along the Stort. The country house will forever be associated with just two families of Thorley, Hertfordshire – the Freres and the Rapers. The name Frere first appeared in local records in the early 13th century but it was the Rapers, a wealthy family of London silk merchants, who became lords of Thorley Manor in the early 1700s. The house changed hands in 1806 through marriage, and the Freres became the owners, until 1939 when the War Office requisitioned Twyford House for use as a maternity hospital for pregnant women, mostly evacuees from London’s East End. A total of 693 babies were born in the hospital. During the remaining century, Twyford House was redeveloped to become private residencies and offices. This is far

from the original use of the house, but it still stands as the one of the most beautiful houses along the Stort, and one of the most vivid childhood memories I have.

On the other side of Pig Lane, vibrantly coloured houseboats lay silent and unmoving – exotic names, such as Zenadu painted perfectly along their sides, replacing the small merchant boats that used to bring Bishop’s Stortford and its surrounding villages necessities during the past 2000 years.

My journey continues into Bishop’s Stortford, a Roman Market Town. Through the town centre and past the newly constructed leisure centre and cinema complex, the path ends up in gardens. Named Castle Gardens, due to the remains of a castle, that towers above the small town.

Waytemore Castle was once used as a royal fortress, residence and prison and was also fortified by various Bishops through the years. However, the Castle was in ruins by 1549 and demolished in 1649. Today, only the mound remains, rumoured to be haunted by a witch. It is set in attractive moated garden with scented flowerbeds, tennis courts and a childrens paddling pool and water fountain. In the summer, Castle Gardens and the River Stort is a haven for all generations, from grandparents to their grandchildren.